Curated City Guide: Cognac, France

Welcome to my curated Cognac city guide.

Having lived in Cognac for 6 months (and visited many times since), I’ve discovered the best this charming countryside village has to offer – and it does have a lot to offer.

My travel guides are not massive, comprehensive lists of everything I’ve ever seen, done, and experienced in these destinations, nor are they a compilation of the city’s “most popular” things to do.

Instead, my guides are a selection of handpicked, carefully considered restaurants, bars, and activities that are truly worth doing. Whether it’s the underrated dessert stand at the marché with the best cheesecake in the world or a (only slightly biased) recommendation of the top Cognac maison worth touring (hint: it’s Hennessy), you’ll find it here.

Each flagged destination includes a remark from me about why it’s worth visiting so you can perfectly plan your own itinerary and know exactly what to expect.

Cognac Highlights

If you need to narrow things down even further, below are my all-time favorites and top 3 recommendations for Cognac. Anytime I am back in this quaint village, I always make time for these spots no matter what.

1. Poulpette

Poulpette is a seasonal French restaurant in a super cool, minimalist atmosphere. The dining experience is curated without being uptight. I adore the bread here, and it’s one of the places where I can go through basket after basket. Especially because the sauces, broths, and purees featured in all of the dishes are so good you just have to mop them up with a slice of baguette. Absolutely irresistible, I’ve never visited Cognac without squeezing in a meal here.

2. The cheesecake from Sugar & Spice at Les Halles

I am not even kidding that the best cheesecake I’ve ever had in my entire life is found at the dessert stand called Sugar & Spice in Les Halles (the central market in Cognac). Open Friday through Sunday only, I organize my entire visit to Cognac around making sure I manage to get a slice of this cheesecake. The owner of the stand is actually Scottish but has been living and working in Cognac for many years. I adore the classic cheesecake but if you happen across the seasonal lime cheesecake at the right time of year, it’s the best. Think key lime pie but in the form of the best cheesecake you’ll ever eat.

3. Le Lys

With so many Cognac-centric cocktail bars in this small town, it is difficult to choose just one. Le Lys is my top choice for both the ambiance and the quality of the cocktails. Open only in the warmer months, this outdoor terrace has a rooftop-vibe with views overlooking the Charente river. Time your apéro well and enjoy a spectacular sunset. A very close runner-up, especially if you’re visiting when Le Lys is closed, is Bar-Luciole (noted on the map).

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